Saint Michael's Church in Murato - San Michele
One of the most famous churches in Corsica
The Church of Saint-Michel in Murato - San Michele di Muratu - is emblematic of Corsica and known beyond the Mediterranean. Mentioned in the stories of Prosper Mérimée, it is visited by nearly a hundred thousand tourists every year, summer and winter.
The building is of Romanesque architecture with a Pisan style, as evidenced by its two-tone facades of green and white rectangular stones. The green stones are made of local serpentine(chlorite) from the Bevinco river, which flows through the village, while the white stones are made of limestone from Saint-Florent.
In 1839, Prosper Mérimée, on an inspection trip to Corsica, described it as "the most elegant and the prettiest he had seen in Corsica". It was listed as a Historic Monument in 1840, just one year later.
The church is open on Michaelmas, 8 May and 15 August, and on certain afternoons.
The context of the 11th and 12th centuries
Corsica emerged from several centuries of Saracen offensives that forced the population to leave the coast for the mountainous regions. Aided by Charlemagne on several occasions and then by a Genoese and Pisan alliance. Pope Gregory VII initiated the Piève system and asked the bishop of Pisa to set up administrative, religious and judicial institutions, to construct buildings, churches, bridges and port areas, and to give the local populations more means to defend themselves. Saint-Michel became part of the Piévanie of Bevinco and the diocese of Nebbiu. Corsica then enjoyed 2 centuries of prosperity, the"Pax Pisana".
Built in the 12th century
Ordered by the lords of Petr'a l'Arreta, its foundation is estimated to have taken place between 1130 and 1140 and, according to the written records, it seems to have been built in two stages, first with the Nave, then with the porch bell tower. Legend has it that it was built in one night by angels. It is one of the oldest churches on the island, and its state of preservation is also due to the renovation work carried out on several occasions, including the raising of the bell tower in 1855 by Achille Murati, whose grandfather was an army chief under Pascal Paoli.
Saint-Michel stands out not only for its age and typical character, but also for its special location, at the centre of a large walled plot overlooking the Gulf of Saint Florent and facing the village of Murato.
Sculptures on the archivolts
The archivolts of the mullioned windows seem to depict biblical scenes sculpted in serpentine and limestone.
Structure of the building
The external structure of Saint-Michel consists of a nave, a choir and a semicircular apse. The bell tower rests on 2 cylindrical columns. The roof is made of green lauzes, a typical island roof, and the wooden framework is visible.
On the semi-circular apse on the east facade, a cross-shaped dormer catches the light of the rising sun - photo.
The polychrome facades in the Pisan style feature five mullioned windows, including one on the semi-circular wall, and modillions around the perimeter of the building. The polychrome decoration of the walls is very similar to that of the Chapel of the Holy Trinity in Aregno, which dates from the same period.
The interior is adorned with mural frescoes, some of which have been erased by time. An oculus stands on the west entrance façade.
Lintel of Saint-Michel
The lintel of Saint-Michel was struck by lightning in 1969 and has since been rebuilt. It depicts two birds, two peacocks with feathers studded with stones, each pulling the ear of a man placed in the centre, holding them by one leg.
Modillions
Saint-Michel has a large number of modillions all around the church. These modillions are intended to be simple and eloquent, without superficiality, so as to be accessible to as many people as possible. Among other things, they evoke justice, the law and religious values, through representations of objects, characters and animals. On the front, there are two figures apparently representing the law, one carrying a scroll and the other wearing a robe, as well as a parchment on the south façade, which features two birds back to back, a portrait of a woman, stars at different points, a shape that seems to evoke infinity or the universe, and a triton symbolising the sin of lust.
The tomb
Below Saint-Michel is a tomb inscribed with the names of Achilles Murati and Romanus Murati, historical figures from the village. Achilles Murati was Pascal Paoli's lieutenant.
Broadcast on Saint-Michel en corse by the CRDP
Some interesting sources
Here are a few interesting and relevant links to help you find out more, with the Imagina Muratu association providing additional information, andElisabeth Pardon 's blog on the subject of the sculptures, modillions and motifs in the church of Saint-Michel.
